Make Black Hair Curly

Many people of African descent have textured hair that is more prone to heat damage[1] and drying out. Many hair curling methods are tailored more to other hair types and don't take this into account. If you have this hair type, to prevent damage you should use moisturizers, heat protectants, and as little heat as possible. Luckily, because black hair usually grows in a natural curling pattern, "adding" curls to your hair can be as simple as just sectioning it into small strands.

Steps

Curling with Heat

  1. Detangle and section your hair. Sectioning your hair will make it easier to work with, and you'll end up with more consistent curls. Sectioning will also make sure you don't miss the back of your hair and will make these roots easier to reach.[2] The number of sections you'll make will depend on how much hair you're comfortable working with. Four sections generally work best.
    • Hair can be heat curled either dry or wet.[3]
  2. Use a heat protection product. Black hair is generally more prone to drying out when compared to other hair types. When hair is too dry, it becomes brittle and more prone to breakage. Using a heat protection spray or cream will prevent damage while you curl.[3]
  3. Pick the right curling wand. Remember that the width of your wand will determine the width of your curls. If you want big, bouncy curls, select a wand with a width of more than one inch. For smaller ringlets, use a thinner wand.[3] Many curling wands come with multiple attachments with different thicknesses.
  4. Pre-heat your wand. Pick a heat setting between 350 to 370 degrees Fahrenheit (about 177 to 188 degrees Celsius). Remember that you want your wand to be hot enough to curl your hair but not so hot that you damage it. Let your wand heat up for two to four minutes before you begin to style.
  5. Wrap a strand around the barrel of your wand. Don't leave the section on the wand for more than 10 seconds.[4] Any longer may damage your hair. Do not wrap your hair around itself; if it isn't in contact with the heating element your hair is unlikely to hold a curl. Instead, make sure you are wrapping your hair strand around the wand itself.
  6. Remove the hair strand from the wand and hold it. Wear a heat resistant glove on the hand you use for this step. Hold the curl bunched up in place on your hand for a few seconds to cool. By allowing the curl to set while still in a spiral shape, your curls will have more hold.[3]
  7. Repeat with the rest of your hair. Place the first strand to the side. Move on to another strand of roughly the same size as the first. Keep working until all of your hair is curled.
    • If you find your finished strands getting in the way, carefully pin them back. While your curls are likely to hold fine, avoid messing them up too much until you've set them.
  8. Set your curls. Use some styling gel or spray on some hairspray to make your curls last longer. Avoid alcohol-based hairsprays that can dry out your hair. You may want to look for holding sprays made especially with African hair in mind. These products will reduce frizz by both blocking out humidity and sealing in your hair's own moisture.[5] Experiment with different products to find the one right for you.

Using Flexi Rods

  1. Gather your materials. Of course, the most important part of a flexi rod curl is the flexi rods. These can be found at most beauty supply and drug stores. You will also need a bristle brush, a spray bottle filled with water, hair clips, and a setting product if necessary.
    • Flexi rods come in a variety of sizes. Keep in mind that the wider the rod, the larger your curls will be. If you want to go for tight ringlets, use smaller rods.
  2. Make sure your hair is dry and detangled. Flexi rods work best on stretched hair, like what you'd have from a braid out. Part your hair where you want your curls to fall.
    • If your hair is long, separating it into four sections with hairclips will make it easier to work with.[6]
  3. Take a one-inch strand of hair and moisten it with water. Spritz your hair with the spray bottle so that the whole strand is a little moist. Do not make it soaking wet. Smooth your hair down with your bristle brush.[6]
  4. Roll the flexi rod up into your hair. Take the bottom end of your hair strand and place a flex roller on top of it. Use your finger to initially hold the end in place. Roll the rod up towards your scalp.
  5. Bend the ends of the flexi rod inward. Flexi rod sets don't need bobby pins like other rollers. Instead, their flexible ends act as built-in pins to hold hair in place. When your hair has been rolled properly tight up against your scalp, the flexi rod's arms should be enough to keep your curls secure while they dry.
  6. Repeat the process with more one-inch strands until all of your hair is up in curls. Work around your head, section by section. If you plan on finishing with large, chunky curls, try to keep each strand a consistent size. To do that, try to grab strands that are as equally thick as possible.This is not as important if you plan on separating the curls out into smaller ones.
  7. Dry and fluff out your hair. Make sure your hair is completely dry before removing your flexi rods. Many people choose to sleep with their rods in and remove them in the morning. Run your fingers through your curls if you want to separate out thick tight ringlets into smaller, more voluminous curls.
    • You may choose to use a hooded or blow dryer instead of air-drying.[6] Just remember that heat has the potential to dry out and damage your hair.
    • If your hair doesn't hold curls well on its own, using a setting product like hairspray or gel will help your curls last longer.

Enhancing Natural Curls with a Wash and Go

  1. Determine your natural hair type. The most prevalent hair typing system separates hair into four different general groups by texture: Type 1 (straight), Type 2 (wavy), Type 3 (curly), and Type 4 (coily). Each of these types can be further broken down into three subtypes A-C. In general, the system moves from hair that is the most straight and moisture-retentive (1A) to hair that is the most textured and prone to drying (4C).[7] If you are of African descent, your hair is most likely to be Type 3 or Type 4. Types 3C through 4C will benefit the most from curl enhancers.
    • Not everyone's hair fits perfectly in this system. You may find individual hairs that share the qualities of two different subtypes or you may have hair of more than one subtype.
  2. Figure out if your hair type is right for a wash and go. Some hair types work better with this method than other. Some special considerations for certain hair types include:
    • Types 3A and 3B: While these hair types are easier to straighten, they are also more prone to losing curl definition. Curl enhancers are much less likely to work.
    • Type 3C: This hair type is more prone to drying compared to other Type 3s and benefits from added moisturizing.[8]
    • Type 4A: This hair type is the one most prone to damage. High heat and harsh chemicals should be avoided.
    • Type 4B: This hair type is tightly coiled and holds styles better than Types 3 and 4A hair, making it ideal for wash and goes.
    • Type 4C: This hair type usually does not form individual clumps or curls on its own but may do so with curl enhancer. If the enhancer cannot form curls by itself, the product may be used to enhance other curling techniques.[9]
  3. Pick your hair product. Each person's hair has its own unique set of properties. As such, finding the curl enhancer that's right for you will take some trial and error. However, knowing your hair type will help narrow down your choices. In general, Type 3 hair responds well to sprays, while Type 4 hair needs thicker products like gels and creams.
    • Until you know what works best for you, buy the smallest size available. While the cost per ounce will likely be higher than a larger size, you won't be saving any money if you need to toss most of it because it doesn't play well with your hair.
    • Ask around for sample-sized products. Many salons and beauty supply shops offer trial samples that are either very inexpensive or completely free. These samples typically have enough product to figure out if it's right for you.
  4. Wash your hair. Be sure to moisturize your hair afterwards if necessary. Some curl-defining products are oil-based and hydrate your hair, making them enough of a moisturizer on their own. Other products are water-based and non-moisturizing, while still others contain harsh chemicals that can dry your hair out further. For these, you will definitely need an extra leave-in conditioner or hair oil to moisturize your hair.
    • In general, products called creams or custards will moisturize.[10]
    • Some curl creams can work as a leave-in conditioner for 3C and 4A hair.[10]
  5. Apply a small amount of product to wet hair. Start with a quarter-sized dab of definer and lather it between your palms. If your product is extra thick or sticky, try mixing in a few drops of water. Coat your hair with the product using your hands.[11]
  6. Work the product into your hair. Smooth down the length of your hair with your hands together in a "praying" position. Do this a few times until there is no visible residue. Be sure to distribute the product evenly from your roots on out. Detangle with your fingers if you find any knots.
    • If you're happy with your curl definition from the product alone, simply allow your hair to air dry. You don't have to do anything else to lock your curls in place.
    • If you're in a hurry, you can blow dry instead. Use a low heat setting to prevent damage. [12]
  7. Shingle your hair if necessary. If your hair is very thick, you will likely need to "shingle" each individual curl. This may sound like a daunting task, but it's very simple and with practice won't take too much time.
    • After applying your product while your hair is still wet, separate out a small strand of hair with your hand.
    • Add a little more product to the strand. Rake your fingers through your hair until it's slick and frizz-free. Detangle with your fingers as you go.
    • Pull the first strand to the side and move on to the next. Repeat until you have a head full of individual defined curls.[13] Dry your hair as normal, locking in your curls.

Tips

  • Avoid shampoos that contain sulfates or are advertised as "clarifying." These will dry out and potentially damage your hair.
  • Start your curls at different heights for a more natural look.[14]

Related Articles

Sources and Citations

  1. ↑ http://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2015/08/04/428982232/straighten-your-hair-without-frying-it-engineers-are-on-the-case
  2. ↑ http://www.teenvogue.com/story/how-to-get-fine-hair-to-hold-curls
  3. ↑ 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.3 http://www.naturalhairrules.com/curl-wand-tutorial/
  4. ↑ http://madamenoire.com/42181/how-to-curl-african-american-hair/
  5. ↑ http://www.curlynikki.com/2011/07/frizz-fighting-products-that-really.html
  6. ↑ 6.0 6.1 6.2 http://blackgirllonghair.com/2014/08/how-to-achieve-heatless-bouncy-curls-in-6-easy-steps/
  7. ↑ http://www.naturallycurly.com/hair-types
  8. ↑ http://www.naturallycurly.com/pages/hairtypes/type3
  9. ↑ http://www.naturallycurly.com/pages/hairtypes/type4
  10. ↑ 10.0 10.1 http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/wavy-hair-type-2/top-10-curl-defining-hair-products/
  11. ↑ http://www.curlzandthecity.com/zoes-wash-go-regimen/
  12. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cap0WEZxjLQ
  13. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjWuTZchoeI
  14. ↑ http://madamenoire.com/42181/how-to-curl-african-american-hair
Retrieved from "https://kipkis.com/index.php?title=Make_Black_Hair_Curly&oldid=312381"