Make a Backpack

Ever needed a backpack, but couldn't find the right one? Why not make your own? There are lots of ways to make a backpack from a simple, drawstring pouch to a typical, zippered backpack, like the kind you'd take to school. The best part about making your own backpack is that you can customize it completely; you get to choose what color is it, what it's made out of, and even what color the zippers and/or cords are!

Steps

Making a Simple Drawstring Backpack

1. Cut two 12 by 14-inch (30.48 by 35.56-centimeter) rectangles out of fabric. You can use any type of fabric you want, but cotton, linen, or canvas would be best, because they are durable.
   • You can make this bag bigger/smaller. Use the same measurements for the casing and the seam allowances, however.
2. Fold and press three of the edges down by ¼ inch (0.64 centimeter). Place one of the pieces of fabric down, with the wrong side facing you. Fold both of the long edges and one of the narrow edges down by ¼ inch (0.64 centimeter). Press them flat with an iron; be sure to use a heat setting suitable for the fabric you are working with.
   • Repeat this step for the other piece of fabric.
   • Use sewing pins to keep the fabric in place as you fold and iron it.
3. Top stitch the three folded edges down using a sewing machine. Repeat this step for the other piece of fabric. Do not sew the two fabric pieces together just yet.
4. Make the casing by folding the top, raw edge down twice. Fold the top, raw edge down by ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) and press it flat with an iron. Fold it down again by 2 inches (5.08 centimeters), and press it flat again. Repeat this step for the other piece of fabric. This will make the casing for the cord to go through.
   • Make sure that you are folding towards the wrong side of the fabric.
   • Use sewing pins to hold the fabric in place as you fold and iron it.
5. Topstitch the casing down, as close to the bottom edge as possible. You can use a color that matches the color of your fabric, or a contrasting one for a more interesting design. Do this for both pieces of fabric.
6. Sew the two fabric pieces together. Pin the fabric pieces together, with the right sides facing inward. Starting just below the casing, sew all the way around the side, bottom, and side edges of the bag, using a ⅝-inch (0.59-centimeter) seam allowance.
   • Leave a 1-inch (2.54-centimeter) wide gap at each bottom corner. If you forget to do this, that's okay. Simply use a seam ripper to undo some of the stitching at each bottom corner. You'll be using these gaps to slide the cording through.
7. Turn the bag inside out, and press it flat with an iron. Use something thin, such as a pair of scissors, a chopstick, or knitting needle to push out the seams first. This will give you a neater finish. Be sure to press all the side edges as well as the top casing.
8. Thread the cords through the casings. Attach a safety pin to one of the 58-inch (147.32-centimeter) long cords. Starting from the front-left hole, pull the cord all the way around the bag, until it comes out the back-left hole. Repeat this step with the other cord, but start at the front-right side, and finish at the back-right side.
   • For a fancier touch, use grosgrain ribbon. Choose a color that nicely contrasts with your fabric.
9. Knot the cords together. Take the two cords on the left side of the bag, and knot the ends together. Repeat this with the two cords on the right side of the bag.
10. Turn the bag inside out and pull the cords through the gaps you left earlier at the bottom corners. Pull the left cord through the left gap, and the right cord through the right gap. The knots should be resting just outside the seam.
11. Stitch the gaps close. Be sure to go back and forth over the gap a few times to hold the cords in place. Use a ⅝-inch (0.59-centimeter) seam allowance as before.
    • A zigzag stitch will be the best for this.
12. Turn the bag right-side-out. It is now ready to use! To close the back, simply scrunch the top of the bag shut along the cord. Use the two cords as straps. Keep in mind that this bag is delicate, and that it won't hold up to heavy things, like text books.

Making a Drawstring Backpack

1. Cut your pieces out of durable fabric, such as canvas. You can also make your backpack out of cotton or linen, but it may not be as durable. To make things easier later on, consider labeling the pieces with some dressmaker's chalk. Here are the pieces you need to cut:
   • Body: two 44 by 50-centimeter (17.32 by 19.69-inch) rectangles
   • Base: one 17 by 36-centimeter (6.7 by 14.18-inch) rectangle
   • Flap: two 24 by 24-centimeter (9.45 by 9.45-inch) squares
   • Shoulder straps: two 10 by 66-centimeter (3.94 by 25.99-inch) strips
   • Handle strap: one 10 by 24-centimeter (3.94 by 9.45-inch) strip
2. Round the corners of the flap pieces. Pin the two flap pieces together, with the right sides facing in. Use a glass and a pen to draw the curves first, then cut them out with a pair of scissors.
3. Sew the two flap pieces together using a 1-centimeter (0.4-inch) seam allowance. Sew along both of the side edges and the curved, bottom edge. Leave the top, straight edge open, so that you can turn the flap inside out.
   • Cut little notches into the curved edges. Be careful not to cut into the stitching. This will help reduce bunching and bulk when you turn the flap inside-out.
4. Turn the flap right-side-out, press it flat with an iron, then topstitch the edges. After you turn the flap inside out, use something thin and slender, like a pair of scissors, a chopstick, or a knitting needle, to push out the curves. Press the edges of the flap down with an iron using a heat setting suitable for the fabric. When you are done, topstitch all the way around the flap, about 6 millimeters (0.24 inches) from the edge. You can use a matching thread color, or a contrasting one.
   • For a fancier touch, pin some bias tape all the way around the edges, then top stitch it down.
   • You can topstitch the top, raw edge this time around, if you want to.
5. Fold the edges of the shoulder and handle strips in by 1 centimeter (0.4 inch), then press them flat with an iron. Turn the strips so that the wrong sides are facing you. Fold and press each of the long edges by 1 centimeter (0.4 inch). Do this for both of the shoulder straps and the handle strap. Leave the narrow edges alone.
6. Fold, press, and topstitch the shoulder and handle straps. Fold each of the strips in half, lengthwise. The folded edges should now be on the inside, and the right-side of the fabric should now be on the outside. Pin the edges in place, then topstitch along them, about 6 millimeters (0.24 inch) away from the edge. Do this for both of the shoulder strap pieces and the handle strap.
7. Pin and sew the body pieces together, leaving a 3-centimeter (1.19-inch) gap on each side for the cording. Pin the two body pieces together, with the right sides facing each other. Starting from the top-left corner, stitch down 5 centimeters (1.97 inches) along the long edge. Leave a 3-centimeter (1.19-inch) long gap, then continue sewing the rest of the way down to the bottom corner. Repeat for the right side.
   • Use a 1-centimeter (0.4-inch) seam allowance.
   • Do not sew along the bottom edge of the bag.
8. Press the seam allowances open. An easy way to do this is to turn the body piece inside out, and turn it so that one of the seams is on the ironing board. Run the iron through the tube, pressing the seam allowances open and flat. Repeat this for the other seam allowance, then turn the back inside out again so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing you.
9. Fold the top edge of the bag down twice to make the casing. Fold and press the top edge of the bag down by 1 centimeter (0.4 inch) first. Then, fold it down by 4 centimeters (1.58 inches), and press it again. Make sure that you are folding evenly all the way around the top edge of the bag.
10. Topstitch along the bottom edge of the casing, then turn the bag inside out. Sew as close to the bottom edge as you can—about 6 millimeters (0.24 inch). seam allowance. Use a color that matches your fabric; for a more interesting design, use a contrasting color. When you are done, turn the back inside out, so that all of the seams are on the inside, and the right side of the fabric is facing you.
11. Pin the shoulder straps and the handle strap to the top of the bag. Make sure that the bag is turned inside-out first, so that the right side of the fabric is facing you. Then:
    • Pin the shoulder straps 13 centimeters (5.12 inches) apart, just below the casing. The top edges should be facing top of the bag, and the bottom edges should be facing the bottom of the bag.
    • Pin the ends of the handle strap between the shoulder straps. The ends of the handle should be facing the top of the bag, and the loop of the handle should be facing the bottom of the bag.
12. Pin the flap on top of the shoulder and handle straps. Position the flap so that the top, raw edge is just below the casing, and aligned with the raw edges of the straps. The raw edge should facing the top of the bag, and the curved edge should be facing the bottom of the bag.
13. Stitch the flap in place, then fold flap upwards, and topstitch it again. Use a 1-centimeter (0.4-inch) seam allowance both times.
14. Pin the ends of the shoulder straps to the bottom of the bag, 18 centimeters (7.09 inches) apart. Make sure that you are only pinning them to the back of the bag. Do not pin them through both layers of fabric, or you won't be able to attach the base.
15. Cut the corners of the base piece so that you get a rounded rectangle. Fold the base into fourths. Use a glass to trace a curve on top of the loose (not folded) corner. Cut along the line that you drew, then unfold the base. You'll get a rounded rectangle.
16. Turn the back inside-out again, then pin the base to the bottom, and sew it in place. Turn the bag inside-out so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing you. Pin the base to the bottom of the bag. The long edges of the base should be at the front/back of the bag. The short edges of the base should be at the sides of the bag. Stitch the base in place using a 1-centimeter (0.4-inch) seam allowance.
17. Thread the cords through the casing. Attach a safety pin to one of the 1-meter (1.1-yard) long cords. Starting from the front-left hole, pull the cord all the way through the front and back casing, until it comes out the back-left hole. Repeat this step with the other cord, but for the other side; start at the front-right side, and finish at the back-right side.
    • The bag will close at the left and right sides, like a drawstring bag or pouch.
18. Knot the ends of the cords together. Take both of the cords on the left side of the bag, and knot the ends together. Repeat with the two cords on the right side of the bag.
19. Snip off any loose threads. Go over your bag, and snip off any loose or excess threads. Your bag is done, and ready to use!
    • If you want, you can attach a snap to the flap and front of the bag. Follow the instructions that come with the snap you are using, as each one will be a little different.

Making a Mini Backpack

1. Cut your fabric pieces out of sturdy fabric, such as canvas. You can also use another type of heavy-duty fabric. To keep yourself organized, label the different pieces using a dressmaker's chalk or pen. Listed below are the pieces you need to cut and their measurements. You can make a bigger backpack if you want, but keep the proportions and seam allowances the same.
   • Front panel: 12½ by 14½-inch (31.75 by 36.83-centimeter) rectangle
   • Back panel: 12½ by 15½-inch (31.75 by 39.37-centimeter) rectangle
   • 2 zipper panels: 3 by 17-inch (7.62 by 43.18 centimeter) strip
   • 1 side panel: 4½ by 30-inch (11.43 by 76.2 centimeter) strip
   • 2 long straps: 6½ by 25-inch (16.51 by 63.5-centimeter) strip
   • 2 short straps: 4 by 6-inch (10.16 by 15.24-centimeter) rectangle
   • 1 handle strap: 3 by 6-inch (7.62 by 15.24-centimeter) rectangle
2. Shape the top of your front and back panels. Pin the two panels together, so that the top, narrow edges align. The back panel will be a little longer. Fold the panels in half lengthwise, then cut the top into a large curve. When you unfold it, the top should be arched, just like a real backpack. Unpin the panels when you are done.
3. Shape the bottom corners of your front and back panels. Pin the two panels together again, but this time, align the bottom, straight edges. Fold the panels in half lengthwise, then cut the bottom corners at a curve. Don't make the curve as big as you did for the top. Unfold, and unpin the panels when you are done, and set them aside.
   • Use a glass and a dressmaker's chalk or pen to trace the curve.
4. Fold the straps. Take one of the long straps, and fold it in half lengthwise with the wrong sides facing together. Press it flat with an iron using a heat setting suitable for the fabric you are working with. Tuck the long edges inside, all the way to the crease. Press the strap flat again.
   • Do this for both of the shoulder straps, the short straps, and the handle strap.
5. Topstitch both of the long edges down. If you need to, pin the strap shut with sewing pins. Topstitch along both of the long edges using a thread color that matches your fabric.
   • Do this for the both of the shoulder straps, the short straps, and handle strap. Set the straps aside when you are done.
6. Cut the back panel into two parts. Find the top center of your back panel. Measure down 4 to 4½ inches (10.16 to 11.43 centimeters), then cut straight across. You will end up with two pieces: a curved top piece and a rectangular bottom piece. The top piece will be referred to as "Part A." The bottom piece will be referred to as "Part B."
7. Place the long straps on top of "Part B." Make sure that the right side of the fabric is facing you, then place the shoulder straps on top. They need to be about 1 to 2 inches (2.54 to cc centimeters) away from the side edges. Make sure that the top edges of the straps are aligned with the straight, top edge of Part B, and that you are pinning the straps to the right side of the fabric.
8. Pin Part A face down on top of the shoulder straps and Part B. Make sure that the bottom, straight edge of Part A is aligned with the top, straight edge of Part B. The wrong side of Part A should be facing you.
9. Sew Part A, Part B, and the straps together. Use a ½-inch (1.27-centimeter) seam allowance and a straight stitch. Remove the pins as you sew.
10. Flatten the back panel, then topstitch the seam down. Fold Part A up, so that you can see the entire back panel. Fold the seam down against Part B, and press it flat with an iron. Topstitch the seam down to Part B; you will be going right over the shoulder straps.
11. Assemble the bottom straps. Fold the short straps in half widthwise. Slide a backpack strap adjuster onto each strap, so that the bars are nestled in the folds.
12. Pin the bottom straps to the back panel, and sew them in place. Turn the back panel so that the right side of the fabric is facing you. Pin the bottom straps to the bottom of the back panel; make sure that the raw edges align. Also, make sure that the bottom straps align with the shoulder straps. Topstitch them in place using a ½-inch (1.27-centimeter) seam allowance.
13. Finish the shoulder straps. Fold the raw, bottom ends of the shoulder straps twice: first by ¼-inch (0.64-centimeter), then by ½-inch (1.27-centimeter). Topstitch the folded edge down. When you are done, thread each strap through the corresponding strap adjusted at the bottom of the bag.
14. Attach the handle to the top of the back panel. Find the center of the back panel, then pin the handle to the top. Make the raw edges of the handle align with the top edge of the panel. The ends of the handle need to be about 3 inches (7.62 centimeters) apart. Stitch the ends down using a ½-inch (1.27-centimeter) seam allowance.
15. Pin the two zipper panels together, then sew them together along one of the long edges. Pin the two zipper panels together with the right sides facing in. Sew along one of long edges using a ⅝-inch (0.59-centimeter) seam allowance.
16. Press seam open, then baste zipper on top of seam. Open the panels, so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing you, then use an iron to press the seam open. Baste the zipper on top of the seam. Make sure that wrong sides of the fabric and zipper are facing you; the right side of the zipper should be facing the seam.
    • It may seem like you won't be able to use the zipper because of the seam. Don't worry, you will open the seam later so that you can use the zipper.
17. Topstitch the zipper in place. Sew the left and right sides of the zipper down first, then the top and bottom. Be sure to sew across the top and bottom a few times so that it is nice and strong.
18. Open the seam on top of the zipper using a seam ripper. Turn the zipper panel so that the right side of the fabric is facing you. Find the top and bottom stitching for the zipper. Open the seam between those two spots using a seam ripper. You should now be able to open and close your zipper!
    • Be careful not to rip the top and bottom stitching that are holding the zipper in place.
    • Once you are done, cut off any excess zipper, if needed.
19. Sew the side panel to the zipper panel to make a loop. Pin the narrow ends of the side panel to the narrow ends of the zipper panel to make a loop; make sure that the right sides are facing each other. Sew the narrow ends shut using a ½-inch (1.27-centimeter) seam allowance.
    • If you'd like a neater finish: press the seams down against the side panel (away from the zipper panel), then topstitch it in place.
20. Pin the loop to the front of the bag, with the right sides together. To ensure that your bag comes out even: find the top and bottom center of your front. Mark it with a pen or pin. Find the center of your zipper panel and the center of your side panel, and make a mark as well. Align these marks while pinning the loop to the front panel.
    • When you are done, pin the back panel in place as well. Make sure that the wrong side of the back panel is facing you.
21. Sew the loop in place. Use a ½-inch (1.27-centimeter) seam allowance, and remove the pins as you go. To prevent bunching, cut small slits into the seam at the corns. Be careful not to cut into the stitching!
22. Snip off any loose threads, then turn your backpack inside out. Your bag is now ready to use!

Tips

• The topstitching doesn't always have to match the color of your fabric. If you'd like to make the topstitching part of the design, use a contrasting color.
• If you are using patterned fabric, match the thread color to the background color or to the pattern color.
• Sturdy fabric, such as canvas, is the best for backpacks.
• You can make these backpacks any size you want, just keep the proportions and the seam allowances the same. You may need to use longer cords, zippers, and straps, however.
• Sew back and forth over the beginning and ends of your sewing a few times. This will prevent the stitching from coming undone.
• Snip little notches or slits into curved edges. This will prevent unsightly bunching.
• For a more interesting backpack, use cord colors and zipper colors that contrast with your fabric.
• When using an iron, be sure to use a temperature that is suitable for the fabric you are working with.
• When you are done sewing, go over your backpack carefully, and snip off any loose threads with a small pair of scissors.

Things You'll Need

Making a Simple Drawstring Backpack

• Ruler or measuring tape
• Dressmaker's chalk or pen
• Sewing machine
• Sewing pins
• Fabric scissors
• Cotton, canvas, or linen fabric
• Two 58-inch (147.32-centimeter) long cords

Making a Drawstring Backpack

• Ruler or measuring tape
• Dressmaker's chalk or pen
• Sewing machine
• Sewing pins
• Fabric scissors
• Cotton, canvas, or linen fabric
• Two 1-meter (1.1-yard) long cords
• Magnetic snap (optional)

Making a Mini Backpack

• Canvas fabric (about 1 yard/0.92 meters)
• 2 backpack strap adjusters; make sure they match your straps
• 11 to 14-inch (27.94 to 35.56 centimeters) zipper
• Sewing pins
• Fabric scissors
• Seam ripper
• Measuring tape
• Sewing machine

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• Make a Backpack with a Star

Sources and Citations

See also

• Make a Lavender Bag
• Make a Fabric Car Trash Bag
• Make a Tote Bag
• Make a Denim Purse
• Sew a Reversible Tote Bag
• Make a Cell Phone Case
• Make Sachets
• Make a Pencil Bag
• Make a Laptop Tote Bag
• Make a Small Dumpling Coin Purse

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• Make Your Own Accessories