Use a Katana Properly
For the purposes of clarity, omitted are customs of all Japanese arts, such as paying respects to your weapon or tying a hakama (samurai pants). Unless otherwise noted, "art form", "art", and "form" refer to the art of using a Japanese sword.
Steps
- Choose an art form. Because everyone has different traits in combat, you must find an art form that you would be proficient in. If you are unfamiliar with Japanese martial arts, here are some common ones:
- Kenjutsu: Training with the katana and other weapons (depends on school) for use in combat.
- Iaijutsu/battojutsu intended for combat. Used to dispatch your opponent during or immediately after the draw of the sword.
- Kendo: Art of Japanese fencing. Fought with shinai using armor.
- Iaido/battodo: Art of drawing the sword.
- Almost every art form will have different styles. Again, find the one that suits you best.
- Get the necessary equipment. The equipment may differ depending on the art. Common weapons are:
- Shinai: Bamboo swords for kendo comprised of bamboo strapped together. Used in kenjutsu where a bokken would be too dangerous or in kendo.
- Bokken: Wooden practice swords closely resembling a katana or wakizashi. Safe alternative to a live sword. It's the most used weapon in kenjutsu.
- Tanto: Japanese dagger about {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} to {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} in length.
- Wakizashi: a short sword about {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} to {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} in length.
- Katana: A sword about {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} in length.
- Ninjato: A cousin of the katana but with a straight blade.
- Nodachi/Odachi: A really long katana that ranges from {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} long!
- Pick up books. After you have found an art form you are interested in and have gathered the necessary equipment, pick up books on the subject and do some research. The books should only be used IN CONJUNCTION with a qualified teacher! Trying to self learn techniques is highly discouraged, as doing so may corrupt your foundations.
- Find a sensei (teacher). There is no way you can learn well without guidance. Find a dojo or school to learn your desired art.
- Train. Practice assigned kata, or routines, until you can execute it fluently and effectively. If necessary, get a partner to train with you. Then, if permitted, move on to others. Don't forget the old ones.
- Acquire real (or at least better) weapons. After you feel confident, acquire better (which usually means more dangerous) weapons.
- Choosing a katana:
- Choosing a katana is mostly a matter of preference: some prefer heavier katana, while others like lighter; same goes for length. Ask a senior member of your class or your sensei where to purchase your katana from.
- Use the Internet and study up on the different parts of the katana and how a katana is made, and you will be able to tell the difference between the quality of different katanas.
- Choose a suitable kissaki (tip) for the blade. Different arts require different kissaki sizes. Find out which one your art form requires. Common kissaki types are o-kissaki, chu-kissaki and Kk-kissaki, which are large, medium and small, respectively. It is usually possible to determine the kissaki size by just glancing at the blade. Turn the tip up, and look at the sword from the side. Note how the blade narrows at the end, and forms an angle with the relatively straight blunt side of the sword. If the angle is more than 45 degrees, it is usually an o-kissaki. If the angle is around 45 degrees, it is a chu-kissaki. One can conjecture what a ko-kissaki is like.
- Choose a suitable sori (curvature). The requirements for curvature of the blade differs from form to form. The sori pattern not only differs in the degree of curvature, but the also where the deepest part of the curve is located in relation to the tsuka (hilt) or kissaki.
- Choose a design. By design, I mean the aesthetics of the sword. Believe it or not, the aesthetics of a weapon affects your use of it. Choose a sword that interests your tastes, but not so much that you are overprotective of it. Choosing an unappealing sword could potentially lead to disinterest in your weapon.
- The only thing a person should be cutting with a katana in this day and age are items used for tameshigiri (test cutting). The techniques for this will be taught to you if you take kenjutsu and iaijutsu but to my knowledge are not taught in kendo.
- Choosing a katana:
Tips
- The bokken is a very effective training tool. It will actually make swinging a real sword easier in many cases.
- A good draw from a shinken or a live blade will make no sound. A bad draw makes all kinds of sounds. Work a new blade or a new drawing technique until you create no scratching of the saya (scabbard). The biggest mistake in drawing the weapon is when the weapon is drawn upwards as it comes out, this tends to cut the saya-scabbard.
- Take your time. Rushing through techniques and forms without fully mastering the concepts will lead to a variety of problems. Cutting fast is not nearly as important as cutting correctly.
- Grip a sword properly. The right hand (or your dominant hand) should be right below the Tsuba (guard), and the left (or non-dominant) hand should be as far from the right as possible. The smaller fingers should grip the hardest, with the pressure decreasing up the hand until your index finger is just resting on the hilt, rather than gripping at all. When swinging, the left hand should be executing a pulling motion while the right should be guiding the left. As you swing, tighten your grip by turning your hands into the handle which locks it in place. If done properly, this will create a slashing and sawing motion simultaneously.
- Deviate. Not everything is set in stone. If you find something particularly uncomfortable, experiment until you find what suits you, but do not change it so much that it no longer resembles the original.
- Look for someone to train with, this helps immensely in sparring.
- After working with your sword, it is a best practice to wipe it down with a clean cloth, and apply a thin coat of oil. From a traditional standpoint you can use choji oil, though mineral oil will do the job. A few drops onto a clean cloth will do - you should not soak the katana. Be careful when cleaning your sword - pay full attention and continue any conversations after you are done. People will understand.
- Truly mastering any art form can take well over 50 years. Be patient if you truly want to learn an art.
- Having a hi (groove) in a sword will lighten the sword, though it may compromise integrity on a poorly executed cut. The groove is present because material has been removed.
- The katana is not intended to block, and may chip upon impact because of the edge being made of hard steel. The only way in which you would damage the cutting edge is by blocking with the cutting edge. Blocking with a katana is done by using the mune or back of the blade. It is best to move out of its way while deflecting with the sword. One should try to use it to parry a swing and let it slide off instead of trying to stop it all together with his or her blade this is where your katana will get really banged up if you're not careful. For each type of kiri-cut or tsuki-thrust, there is a defense via a glancing block.
- Make sure to get a katana of your draw length. Too many shorter people demand a same size katana and struggle to draw it correctly; this could potentially cause injury.
Warnings
- Do not provoke or threaten others with your art. Aside from the fact that threatening could be a felony, many others are proficient, or even superior in one or more combative art. Provocation is potentially detrimental to your health. Bottom line, don't act tough or macho just because you have a sword.
- Do not attempt to "catch" a falling sword. If you have the bad luck to drop your blade, step back immediately - it might bounce in a random direction. If you try to grab a falling sword, you might need help picking your fingers up off the floor.
- Do not attack unless you are attacked, in which case the subsequent murder (by you) would be justifiable. Use common sense.
- Katana, wakizashi, and tanto must be registered under some jurisdictions. Check with an attorney before purchasing real weapons.
- Carrying a weapon which could be construed as threatening or intimidating is, under certain jurisdictions, brandishing a weapon. Again, check with an attorney before doing so.
- Real katana have been known to utterly destroy other real weapons. Usually every cut from a katana is fatal. Do not use real katana to spar, unless you and your partner are professionals, or intend to die.
- Do not learn an art to get revenge or to better execute violent crimes. It is an utter disgrace, and it is certain you will not be as competent as real students.
- Katana swords are intended for use by experienced people. Only use weapons according to your mastery. When in doubt, use a less lethal version.
- Do not, under any circumstances, purchase a real weapon unless you know how to handle training weapons proficiently. A weapon, even if it's in your possession, can easily be turned against you if you are not competent.
- Do not buy "stainless-steel" katanas. These are usually decorative, and are prone to snapping, which could be potentially dangerous to anyone in the line of fire when (and it will happen) it does break. If you must buy one, buy a high carbon steel katana
- Do not learn on your own. One mistake when learning can produce a snowball effect on your learning, making the use of your art potentially harmful to you.
- It is inadvisable to perform any martial art if you are affected by an inhibiting or otherwise incapacitating substance, disease, disorder, or handicap.
- Do not buy a weapon unless you have handled it in person and know it is suitable for you.
- Inspect your sword. If any part of it is loose, have someone with good experience take a look. If you don't know anyone, email a local dojo and ask if they would mind checking your sword out for you. You will not be able to stop a blade that flies out of the handle.
- Do not attempt to repair a sword unless it is of great value to you.
- Do not, under any circumstances, use your live blades to see if they will cut things. Take everyone's word for it - it will. This goes for cartons of water, food, bricks, soda cans, tree branches, and any other object that people have been known to test cut on. There are two reasons for this; one, a botched cut will irreparably ruin your blade, and two, if you make a mistake it can mean a lost finger or a deep wound before you even realize you're bleeding. Even masters screw up sometimes, but to minimize your likelihood of injury and maximize the life of your blade, only cut properly prepared goza, or rolled tatami mats.
Things You'll Need
- Respect for your weapons and training partners (primarily, you need patience)
- Books
- Armor (if sparring)
- Sensei
- Weapons (differs depending on form)
- Common Sense (obviously don't try to rub your finger over the razor sharp blade)
