Apply Smoky Eyeshadow

When it comes to sexy, sultry makeup looks, it's hard to top the smoky eye. If you're new to makeup, though, pulling off the look can be intimidating -- it's just so easy to wind up looking like you got punched in the eye. The key to successfully applying smoky eyeshadow is choosing the right shades and knowing exactly where to apply each. With practice, you can create a perfect smoky eye in no time.

Steps

Creating a Simple Smoky Eye

  1. Smudge eyeliner along your lash lines. A basic smoky eye usually starts with eyeliner. Use a creamy pencil liner, and run it along your upper and lower lash lines. You should keep the liner thinner on the lower lash line, but you can go a little thicker across the upper lash line. Next, smudge the liner with a small brush, your finger, or a cotton bud to soften it.[1]
    • Jet black liner is traditionally used for smoky eyes, but you can use any dark shade that you like, such as dark brown, charcoal gray, navy blue, forest green, or eggplant.
    • Using your finger to smudge the liner will give your smoky eye a messier, grungier look if you prefer that type of makeup.
  2. Sweep a dark shade across your lid. The key to a smoky eye is using darker powder eyeshadows that give your eyes a sultry look. Choose a dark shade that contrasts with your skin tone. For example, if you have very fair skin, a mid-tone shadow may be dark enough for a smoky eye with your complexion. On the other hand, if you have ebony skin, you’ll need to use a very deep shade to create a smoky eye. Use a small, flat brush to apply your chosen shade across your entire lid, even over the smudged liner.[1]
    • As with eyeliner colors, you aren’t confined solely to black and gray shades for your eyeshadow. Warm, rich bronze tones and other brown shades are very flattering, but you can also go bold with jewel tones, such as a deep emerald green, navy blue, or rich purple.
    • If you’re wearing the smoky eye during the day, you’ll want to go with a dark shadow that’s on the lighter end of the spectrum. For a bold evening look, you can choose a very deep shade.
    • If you’re worried about the dark shadow looking too harsh, use one that has a slightly shimmery finish. It will reflect light, and your eyes won’t appear quite as dark.
    • If you don’t have a brush to apply the shadow, you can use the sponge-tip applicator that usually comes with eyeshadow to press the color onto your lid.
  3. Blend the shadow up to the crease. For a traditional smoky eye, the color should be darkest closest to your lash line. That means you want to soften it as moves it up toward the crease of your eye. Use a small, fluffy crease brush to blend the eyeshadow from the lid up into the crease using a windshield wiper motion.[1]
    • Take your time blending the shadow into your crease. You don’t want any harsh lines or edges.
    • If you can’t diffuse enough color into the crease from your lid by blending with a bare brush, you can tap the crease brush against the shadow to pick up some additional product. Just be sure to tap off any excess so you don’t apply too much.
  4. Highlight the brow bone and inner corner. Once you’ve finished blending the dark shadow across your eye, you want to use a light colored shadow to brighten up under your brow bone and the inner corner of your eye near the tear duct. Depending on your skin tone, apply an ivory, cream, or beige shade with a small brush to those areas.[1]
    • While you can use any light shade that you like to highlight, it’s best to choose a shadow that doesn’t have too much shimmer or glitter. A matte shade is the best bet, but a satin or slight shimmer finish can also work well.
  5. Curl your lashes and add mascara. Because dark shadows can tend to make the eyes look smaller, you want to open them up as much as possible. Start by using an eyelash curler to curl and lift your lashes. Next, apply your favorite mascara to lengthen and thicken the look of your lashes so they can stand out against the dark eye makeup.[1]
    • You may need more than one coat of mascara to get help your lashes stand out with the darker makeup. Make sure not to apply too much, though, or lashes may start to clump.

Applying a Dramatic Smoky Eye

  1. Use a light base shade over the entire lid. To begin your smoky eye look, choose a light shade of powdered eyeshadow that flatters your skin tone, such as a white, ivory, cream, beige, or tan. Use a brush or a sponge-tip applicator to apply it over the entire eye lid, from your upper lashline to under your brow. Dab a little in the inner corner of your eyes as well.[2]
    • It’s best to use a matte shadow as your base shade.
  2. Press a medium dark shade over the base of your eyelid. Start to add depth to your eye look by applying a medium dark tone to your eyelid with a flat shader brush or a sponge-tip applicator. Keep the shadow on the lower ¾’s of the lid, so your brow bone remains brightened by the base shade.[2]
    • You may want to apply multiple layers of the medium dark shade to get it to the depth and intensity that you prefer.
  3. Apply the darkest shade to the outer corner and crease. To really make your smoky eye look sultry and dramatic, you’ll want to work in an even darker shade. Use a pointed crease brush to work the shade into the outer corner of the eye. Start at the outer edge of the lash line and create a diagonal line toward the end of your brow. When you reach the crease, drag the brush inward to darken up that area. You’ll effectively create a “V” shape at the corner of your eye.[2]
    • A black shadow would work with virtually any medium dark lid shade, but you can also use a darker tone from the same color family as the lid shade to keep the look monochromatic. For example, if you’ve used a gray shade on the lid, use a dark charcoal shade for the outer corner and crease.
    • Make sure to blend the dark shadow well, so there are no harsh lines or edges. You may want to switch to a clean, fluffy brush after you’re done applying the shadow to soften it.
    • If the dark shadow isn’t as dark as you’d like, layer it until you build it up to the intensity that you prefer.
  4. Line your upper lashline. Use a creamy eyeliner pencil in black or another dark shade to add definition to your upper lashes, moving from the outer corner to the inner corner. Smudge out the liner, and then press a powder shadow in a similar color to the liner over it with a small pencil brush to darken it up further.[2]
    • You can use a brush or a cotton swab to smudge the liner. It’s best not to use your finger, though, because it’ll give the look a messier feel than you’re going for. If you don’t have a brush or cotton swab, a sponge tip applicator can work.
  5. Add liner to your lower lashline. With the same pencil that you used on your upper lashline, line your lower lashes. Keep the liner as close to your lashline as possible, though. Next, use a brush or cotton swab to soften the line to give it a smokier look.[2]
    • If you want a really sultry smoky eye, consider applying the dark eyeliner to your inside rim of your lower lash line, also known as the water line. Pull lightly on your lower lid to expose the area, and gently run the liner over it.
  6. Apply mascara or false lashes. Finish off your smoky eye by defining your lashes. Use an eyelash curler to curl your lashes, and apply several coats of your favorite black mascara. If you’ve used very dark shadows or just want a bolder look, though, you may want to Apply False Eyelashes to really add drama.[2]
    • Don't forget to apply a little mascara to your lower lashes too.

Doing the Rest of Your Makeup

  1. Apply your eye makeup first. Many people start with their face makeup, and move onto the eyes later. However, you often get fallout on your cheeks from the shadows that you’re applying to your eyes. When you’re using really dark shadows, it can be difficult to get rid of the specks on your face without ruining your foundation and concealer. That’s why it’s best to do your eye makeup first and then apply your face products.[3]
    • If you just prefer to do your face makeup first, apply a generous amount of loose translucent powder beneath your eyes before applying your shadow. The powder will catch any fallout, and you can just sweep it away with a brush when you’re finished with your eyes.
  2. Use an eye primer. You always want your makeup to look fresh all day, but it’s especially important with dark eyeshadows that fade and crease more noticeably. Before you apply any shadows to your eyes, dab on an eye primer. It will form a barrier between the oils in your lid and the shadow, so it stays looking fresh. Primer can also help intensify the shadows that you layer over it.[4]
    • If you don’t have a specific eye primer on hand, apply a little concealer or foundation to your eyelids before using any eye shadows. Next, dust the lids with translucent powder to create a smooth base.
  3. Keep the rest of your makeup subtle. When you’re wearing a bold, smoky eye, it’s usually best to tone down the rest of your look. That means wearing a bright red lip or super shimmery blush with dramatic black smoky eye isn’t always the best choice. Instead, opt for light, neutral shades, such as a nude lip color and a matte neutral blush, so your eyes are the star of your look.[5]
    • Keep in mind that they are no rules in makeup. If you feel like wearing a bold red lip with your smoky eye, go for it. However, if you’re new to smoky eye looks, it’s best to start slow with a soft pink or nude lip.
  4. Add color to your cheeks. While you typically don’t want to go too bold with the rest of your makeup, it’s important to add some color to your face with a smoky eye. That’s because the dark eyeshadows can make you look pale and almost sickly. Apply a rosy or peachy blush to the apples of your cheeks and blend it back toward your hairline to liven up your skin.[5]
    • If you’re not a fan of blush, swap it for your favorite bronzer. Dust it over the tops of your cheekbones to add warmth and color to your skin.



Tips

  • To remove excess eyeshadow, dab Vaseline onto a cotton bud and gently rub onto the messy spot. Then, use the other side on the bud to wipe away the Vaseline.
  • As with most makeup techniques, practice makes perfect. Keep practicing your smoky eye look until you feel more confident about your skills.
  • You can purchase eyeshadow palettes that are designed specifically to create smoky looks, so you’ll have all the shades that you need in one place.

Things You'll Need

  • Powdered eyeshadow in light, medium-dark, and dark shades
  • Black or other dark-colored pencil eyeliner
  • Flat shader brush
  • Fluffy crease brush
  • Pencil brush
  • Pointed crease brush
  • Cotton swabs
  • Sponge-tip applicators
  • Eyelash curler
  • Mascara
  • False lashes

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Sources and Citations