Bleach Wood

Bleaching wood is often a necessary step when staining a dark piece of furniture to a lighter color. Bleaching may also be necessary before refinishing wood that is stained by water spots (such as rings left by glasses), or if the color has become blotchy and uneven in certain places. Follow these steps to bleach wood.

Steps

Bleaching with a Two-Part Chemical System

1. Place the wood in a well-ventilated area so you can safely use the necessary chemicals. Lay garbage bags under the wood to prevent the chemicals from permanently ruining your floor.
   • An open garage or patio is an ideal place to bleach wood. Since the chemicals in bleach are highly corrosive, you do not want any to make contact with your or your household items.
   • Avoid using bleach in the house. If you opt to work indoors, open all doors and windows as inhaling the fumes can be extremely dangerous.
2. Apply varnish or stain remover with a rag or brush. Use a scraper to gently remove any existing finish from the wood.
   • Varnish removers are either chemical or citrus based. Chemical removers have strong fumes but can work in as little as 30 minutes. Citrus based removers have less odor but work slower and may require multiple attempts.
   • Don't use turpentine or mineral spirits. While these are common varnish thinners, they do not dissolve varnish and should only be used to clean your finish.
   • If the finish does not come off easily, you may have to repeat this step more than once.
   • Once all traces of the finish and varnish are removed, let the wood dry for at least 2 days.
3. Purchase a 2-part A/B wood bleach at a hardware store. This product is designed to lighten the color of wood.
   • One bottle contains lye (sodium hydroxide) while the other contains hydrogen peroxide. The bleaching action occurs when the two chemicals come into contact with each other on the wood.
   • Read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully before using the product. Some brands advise putting the "A" chemical on first before the "B," while other brands suggest mixing the two before application. Know which method is advised, as some brands may be structured differently chemically and can have a different effect than intended.
   • For the best outcome, pick a brand like "DALYS," which can be applied either as a mixture or by bottle.
4. Dip a brush in part A and apply it evenly to the wood. Allow the wood to dry for at least 10 minutes before continuing.
   • Wait times may vary from brand to brand. Consult the manufacturer's instructions for the exact time.
   • Use a brush with synthetic bristles as the chemicals will destroy natural bristles.
   • Wear rubber gloves and protective safety glasses when using this product. Remember that bleach is highly caustic and can irritate skin or eyes upon contact.
5. Dip a separate brush in part B and apply it to the wood. Let this stand for 4 hours.
   • Use a similar amount and technique when applying part B as you did when applying part A.
   • For more accurate results, test the 2-part bleach in a small area where it cannot be seen. Observe how the bleach reacts to the wood. You will also be able to learn how quickly the bleach will be absorbed by the wood and how long it takes to dry.
6. Wash the wood with a 50/50 white vinegar and water solution. Wipe thoroughly to neutralize the bleach.
   • Some brands include a neutralizer along with the bleach. If this is the case, preparing a homemade solution is not necessary.
   • If you don't have white wine vinegar, simply using water is acceptable.
   • Use either a sponge or large washcloth to apply the mixture. Be generous when using the solution.
   • Allow the wood to dry overnight before continuing.
7. Wipe the wood with a damp cloth dipped in water. Remove as much of the white vinegar and water solution as possible.
   • Let the wood rest for 2 days, then check the color. If the wood is bleached to your satisfaction, proceed to the next step. If not, reapply the 2-part A/B bleach and repeat the previous steps.
8. Sand the wood with 120-grit sandpaper, followed by 220-grit sandpaper. Remove any remaining finish from the wood
   • sandpaper with a 120-grit is medium grade. This is mostly used for removing old finish as well as scratches. sandpaper with 220-grit is fine grade and is generally for lightly sanding just before applying stain to the wood.
   • Avoid using coarse grade grits, which are under 100. This can damage your wood finish.
9. Coat the wood with a clear gloss or lighter stain. Give your wood a more refined look before applying finish.
   • Clear gloss typically comes in an aerosol spray can. Spray cans require good technique to avoid drips and their thin films aren't as durable as brush-on finish.
   • Brush on stain is more durable and requires less precision. Apply the stain with a brush, working both with the grain and against it. Make sure you apply a nice, even, and liberal coat. For a lighter shade, wipe the stain off immediately after application. For a darker tone, leave the stain on for 10 minutes before wiping off the excess stain.
   • Wear protective clothing when applying stain. Use rubber gloves and try to cover as much as your body as possible. Though the chemicals themselves aren't necessarily harmful, they are difficult to wash off.
10. Apply your finish. Though staining is optional, applying finish is crucial for protecting the surface of wood as well as enhancing its appearance.
    • Wear protective eye wear and gloves when handling finish. The chemicals can harm skin and sometimes emit hazardous fumes. For oil-based finishes, use a charcoal respirator to avoid breathing in the chemicals.
    • Never apply finish near stoves or furnaces. Chemicals in finish are highly flammable and pose a serious fire hazard when heated. Safely store paint brushes by sealing them in paint cans or plastic bags. Take similar precautions when disposing of rags used to apply finish.

Bleaching with Oxalic Acid

1. Apply paint stripper to your wood. Use an abrasive cloth or a scraper to remove old varnish and finish.
   • Paint removers either come in liquid or gel. Either is acceptable when removing old finish from paint.
   • Set the wood aside for about two days to allow it to dry. After two days, use store-bought wood cleaners to remove grease, oils, or grime. Your wood needs to be spotless in order for oxalic acid to work properly.
2. Dissolve an ounce of oxalic acid into a pint of warm water. Select a spacious area as handling both the powder and solution can cause harm to eyes upon contact.
   • Do not mix oxalic acid with any other product. Only mix it with water.
   • Oxalic acid comes in a dry, white crystalline powder. Because it is toxic, it can easily cause irritation to mucous membranes. Wear goggles and a dust mask while handling the dry powder to avoid eye irritation.
3. Wipe the wood with the oxalic acid solution. Use a sponge to apply generous coats and scrub the wood gently.
   • If stains and finish do not disappear immediately, continue applying the solution until there is a noticeable difference.
   • After scrubbing, allow the oxalic acid to fully dry.
4. Scrub the oxalic acid solution off with a wet sponge. Repeat this step multiple times with plenty of water to help remove the crystalline residue.
   • Try to remove as much of the solution as possible. When you go to sand this piece of wood, any residual oxalic acid will irritate eyes even more than normal wood dust.

Things You’ll Need

• Rag
• Varnish or stain remover
• Mineral spirits
• 2-part A/B bleach
• White vinegar and water
• 120-grit and 220-grit sandpaper
• Clear topcoat
• Stain

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Sources and Citations

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