Change the Oil on a 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R
Changing the oil and oil filter on your motorcycle is an essential part of keeping its longevity for as long as possible. Changing the oil and oil filter are done in tangent because they both have the same life expectancy and are a very simple introduction to what it's like to care for your motorcycle. These are quick and easy procedures and will help you save time and money in the long run.
Steps
Changing the Oil
- Ride your motorcycle for 10-15 minutes. It'll warm-up the engine oil so that it pours out smoother. You can also let it remain idle while you get your tools.
- Hoist your motorcycle up on a centre stand. Alternatively, kick the stand down. Lay the oil pan down underneath the motorcycle.
- Find the drain bolt underneath the motorcycle. Inspect the drain bolt and the drain bolt gasket. The gasket can become damaged and begin to leak out engine oil.
- Put on your rubber gloves. Attach your 17mm socket to your socket wrench and begin unscrewing the drain bolt. Because the motorcycle has been idle for the last 10-15 minutes, the engine oil is going to be lukewarm and perhaps even a little hot. Engine oil is corrosive, so try to keep the oil contained in the pan and off your hands.
- Allow the old engine oil to drain out and inspect the engine oil. Check for any aluminum shavings to make sure your engine is in optimal performance. Gauge what your engine is looking like, internally.
- Allow the motorcycle to sit for 15-30 minutes. The oil will continue to drip out in the pan. The longer you wait, the better it is. Time allows more of the old oil to pour out and lets you fill up with more new engine oil but 15-30 minutes is usually sufficient. While waiting, keep an eye out for rodents/insects to keep them out of the opened orifice.
- Screw back in place the drain bolt gasket and the drain bolt. Point A is the observation level and Point B is where you'll pour in the new oil once you unscrew it.
- Refer to the observation level. Make sure you’re between the maximum and minimum limit for your engine oil. If it’s on its kickstand, ask someone to view the observation screen while you hold the motorcycle completely vertical.
Changing the Oil Filter
- Unscrew the bolt that's holding in the oil filter. Using the same 17mm socket and socket wrench, unscrew the bolt, indicated by 'A' on the photo, and do an inspection of the bolt and keep it aside.
- Prepare the filter by filling it with the fresh batch of oil. Allow the oil to drop to the bottom of the filter so that it's all wet. By filling it before you replace the filter, you won't have to pour more engine oil in to account for the volume that's lost by taking the old filter out.
- Wet the rubber seal. With an index finger wet with engine oil, rub around the rubber seal so that it's wet. This allows the filter compartment to make a good seal with the engine and also helps with your next filter change by making it easier to come off.
- Wipe off the grime from where the oil filter contacts the engine. By removing small particles, it'll allow for a nice tight seal with your new filter.
- Screw in the new oil filter and do not tighten too hard. Oil filter screws, according to the manual, only need to be turned 3/4 of a left turn. If you tighten the screw too hard, you could ruin the structural integrity of the oil compartment.
Tips
- Keep your work station clean of any oil and keep the oil contained. Engine oil is a corrosive and will eat away at your paint. If it spills on the floor, it's a potential slipping hazard and a pain in the neck to wash out.
- Use a socket wrench that is short because working underneath the motorcycle is a tricky angle and you don't want to torque the screws in too hard for a delicate area like this.
Things You'll Need
- 1.7L of 10W-40 Engine Oil
- 17mm Socket
- Socket Wrench
- Oil Pan
- Rubber Gloves
- Motorcycle Oil Filter
