Build a Kegerator
Draft beer can be served in the comfort of one's home with a kegerator (a portmanteau of "keg" and "refrigerator"). Kegerators are converted refrigerators that enable anyone to have one or more kegs of chilled beer on tap. Home-brewed beer as well as commercial kegs of beer can be served with a kegerator, and the quality will be identical to that found in your local tavern or brewpub. Kegerators are relatively easy to build and operate, and can be quite cost effective. Kegerators are also quite "green", as they eliminate the need for bottled and canned beer.
Steps
- Understand the basic functions and components of a kegerator. A kegerator is essentially a keg of beer that is kept cold in a refrigerator. The refrigerator has a beer tap or faucet protruding from it, from which the beer is dispensed. The beer is forced through the faucet from the keg by forcing carbon dioxide into the keg. A small tank (cylinder) of carbon dioxide is used to supply the gas pressure, and maintain a specific pressure in the keg so that beer can be dispensed evenly at any time. A regulator that is attached to the gas cylinder enables one to regulate the pressure. There is vinyl "gas" tubing that goes from the gas cylinder and regulator to the "in" port of the keg. From the "out" port of the keg there is the "beer" or "beverage" line, more vinyl tubing that goes to the beer faucet.
- Obtain the necessary components. The components will be somewhat variable, depending on the type of beer that is to be dispensed, and number and types of kegs that will be on tap at one time. The components generally include: One refrigerator large enough to contain the type of keg(s) that will be utilized, beer faucet(s) and handle, faucet shank (long enough to protrude through refrigerator), wing nut with washer and tailpiece to attach the shank to the beverage tubing (if not already part of the shank), beverage and gas line connectors or coupler for type of keg that is to be used, fasteners such as worm clamps for the tubing, CO2 cylinder, CO2 gas regulator, and appropriately sized vinyl tubing. The vinyl beer line should be five feet or more in length (to reduce beer foam), while the vinyl gas line should be about three feet or more in length, and be able to withstand high gas pressure. Also consult the list of "Things You'll Need" below.
- Carefully read all instructions and warnings for all of the components. Make absolutely sure that you understand how to use and operate the CO2 gas cylinder and regulator. Always keep gas cylinders secured and in an upright position. CO2 cylinders are shipped empty, and must be filled locally. See "Warnings" below.
- Determine how the components should be placed in the Choose an Energy Efficient Refrigerator. This can be done by measuring the components as well as the inside of the Fix a Common Refrigerator Problem, and by fitting the components in the refrigerator. Make sure that the kegerator door can be closed properly, that the components won't tip over, and that the beverage and gas lines won't be impeded or compressed. Make sure that the shank will protrude adequately through the refrigerator (shanks are available in different lengths), and that the protruding end has enough room inside the refrigerator. It is customary to place the gas hardware in the refrigerator with the keg, although this is not necessary. However, an additional hole will have to be drilled for the gas line if the gas hardware is placed outside the refrigerator.
- Choose a specific area of the refrigerator that can be safely drilled through in order to place the faucet shank. Refrigerators have internal components that must be completely avoided. It is generally easiest and safest to drill a hole though the refrigerator door.
- Draw a circle or make a centered dot where you want to drill a hole in the refrigerator for the shank and faucet assembly. It is generally best to use a level and a ruler when determining where to drill the hole. Remove the keg and gas hardware from the refrigerator. Make sure the refrigerator is unplugged.
- Obtain a hole saw drill bit (generally 1 1/8", 1", 7/8" or 3/4") that will produce a hole that will neatly accommodate the faucet shank, and drill a hole. A larger drill bit such as 1 1/8" can be used to leave a little extra space if desired. A neater and possibly stronger fit can be produced with a narrower drill bit. A bit larger than 1 1/8" will probably produce a hole that is too large. Be sure to check the dimensions of the shank before choosing a drill bit, and account for the thickness of the refrigerator. The metal exterior of the refrigerator can provide some resistance when drilling, but the insulation and plastic that exists under the metal skin should be very easy to drill through. The centered inner drill bit that protrudes from and is part of the hole saw should enable the drilling to start relatively easily, and will hold the drill bit in place while beginning to drill. If the drill bit cannot readily penetrate the metal exterior, it may be necessary to start a smaller hole with a small regular drill bit. Be sure to clean up all the debris that was produced from the hole drilling, and make sure that the internal components of the refrigerator were not damaged. The refrigerator insulation can break apart easily and get on the shank (and possibly in the beer), so it may be a good idea to line the inside of the shank hole with something to prevent this, especially if the shank will be removed frequently. Oftentimes it is not necessary to remove the shank, but certain cleaning methods may require the shank to be removed. For example, cleanser and sanitizer can be simply run through the beer lines to clean a kegerator, or the beer lines (including faucet and shank) can be removed, broken down, and soaked in cleanser and sanitizer. If the hole that has been drilled is found to be too small, it may be necessary to grind the metal layer of the refrigerator with a tool such as a Dremel to widen the opening. If the hole that has been drilled is found to be too big, it should be possible to install an extra reinforcing plate on the inside of the refrigerator. To do this, merely cut a piece of thin yet strong material that will cover and overlap the area inside of the refrigerator where the hole was drilled. Then drill a smaller hole in the piece of material that will properly accommodate the shank and associated hardware. Insert the shank through the refrigerator and through the rear reinforcing plate, and screw on the hardware that attaches the shank. This can also be done to reinforce a properly fitted shank.
- Clean and sanitize the beer faucet, shank, beer line, and other associated components. Anything that comes in contact with the beer should be clean and sanitized. The gas lines and hardware should be clean and free of dust and debris that may end up in the beer.
- Insert the beer faucet and shank assembly through the refrigerator, and secure using included hardware. Attach the beer line to the connector or coupler that attaches it to the keg, and attach the beer line to the faucet shank tailpiece. If the shank does not have a unified tailpiece, then a wing nut, separate tailpiece, and neoprene washer will be needed. The separate tailpiece is held within the wing nut and attached to the tubing with a worm clamp. The wing nut rotates freely around the tailpiece. The neoprene washer is ultimately sandwiched between the tailpiece and the end of the shank. The wing nut holds the tailpiece against the shank. Secure both ends of the tubing with worm clamps or similar hardware. All beverage and gas lines must be completely secured so that beer and gas leaks do not result. To keep the pressure balanced up to the tap (and not produce a mug full of foam), special "Beverage" tubing is used. The beer line should be at least five feet in length when using 3/16" beverage tubing in order to pour a good pint.
- Securely attach the gas line to the regulator outlet and to the keg gas line "in" connector or coupler gas inlet. The gas line should be about three feet or more in length.
- Verify that the CO2 cylinder is filled, completely shut off, and properly attached to the gas regulator. The regulator must also be completely shut off and set to zero pressure.
- Obtain a chilled keg of beer (warm beer will result in overly foamy beer). Vent off all gas pressure in the keg by pulling a pressure relief valve on the keg. Do not attach the keg connectors or coupler to a full, pressurized keg, as this may cause beer and gas to be released explosively from the keg.
- Connect the beer line to the keg. Re-vent gas pressure from the keg if necessary.
- Connect the gas line to the keg. Keep the gas turned off.
- Make sure that all connections are secure, and that the beer tap handle is in the closed position. Make sure that the gas regulator is set to zero pressure and the regulator safety shutoff valve is closed, so that gas cannot escape. Also make sure that the keg is sealed and ready to be pressurized.
- Pressurize the keg for dispensing. Turn the main CO2 cylinder gas valve on, keeping the gas regulator off so that gas still cannot escape through the gas line. Open the regulator shutoff and very very slowly adjust the regulator to about 12PSI, letting the gas enter the keg. Listen for any hissing sounds that may indicate that gas is leaking from somewhere in the system (there should not be any leaks).
- Try dispensing some beer from the faucet, and check for beer leaks. Do not drink this initial beer as it may contain sanitizer or cleanser. The beer may be overly foamy. This may mean that the keg is too warm, that the beer line is too short, that there is too much gas pressure, or that there is a gap of air in the beer line. Inadequate gas pressure will result in air spaces in the beer line.
- To adjust the pressure in the keg, shut off the gas and the relieve the pressure in the keg. Then adjust the pressure in the keg using the gas regulator to achieve desired beer foam.
- Periodically check for gas and beer leaks, and be sure to check the gas pressure that is indicated by the regulator.
Tips
- To extend the lifespan of your regulator setup on your CO2 bottle, consider putting a second hole in your kegerator to run your gas line through. Since the temperature inside the kegerator will be well above freezing, condensation will be a problem.
- Never clean the vinyl line the beer actually flows thru with hot water. The hot water causes the vinyl tubing to distort slightly. This in turn causes the beer to foam as it flows thru the line. If after trying all of the above tips you still get foam, replace the beer line tubing. You can get it at some beer distributors and almost all restaurant supply stores.
- Faucets and shanks are generally made out of chrome-plated brass, stainless steel, or plastic. Stainless steel is generally the most desirable material, as it is non-reactive and will last a very long time. Chrome-plated brass components can give beer off-flavors, and will wear out relatively quickly.
- Kegged beer should already be carbonated, and therefore the CO2 is used to merely push the beer out of the keg. As such, the pressure in the keg should be kept at about only 12PSI. Higher pressures can cause the beer to be too foamy and possibly "force carbonated", and therefore overly carbonated. Overly carbonated beer will be overly foamy and may result in the structural failure of a kegerator system.
- Kegerators that utilize multiple kegs and faucets will require additional components, such as regulators with multiple gas outlets, gas distributors and gas line splitters. There are generally various ways to supply gas to multiple kegs, and therefore choose the method that suits your needs. For example, a kegerator that has more than two faucets should use a gas distributor or a regulator with multiple outlets. A kegerator that has only two faucets can merely use a cheap gas line splitter or a distributor or a regulator with multiple outlets.
- Gas lines are usually made of vinyl, but can be made of other materials. Always make sure that the gas tubing is approved for high gas pressures, such as 70PSI.
- Clean and sanitize beer lines and associated components as needed, generally after finishing one or a few kegs of beer. Follow cleaning instructions for the cleaning and sanitizing products and for the type of keg that is used. Flush the lines so that no cleanser or sanitizer is consumed. Beer lines can be easily sanitized by filling a soda keg with sanitizer instead of beer, and running sanitizer through the beer lines.
- Kegerators that are designed to dispense authentic stout beers generally utilize a specialized nitrogen and CO2 gas mixture in conjunction with stout-style faucets. These kegerators will require specialized gas system components that are specifically designed for the nitrogen gas mixture.
- Do not be intimidated by the apparent complexity of kegerators. Once assembled, it will be obvious that your kegerator is actually simple and easy to operate.
- Placing the CO2 tank into the cold environment of the refrigerator will double the use of gas as it is more dense at colder temperatures. You can economize gas usage by keeping the gas tank outside the fridge.
- The temperature can be adjusted with more precision, and higher proper Ale serving temperatures can be achieved, by using an external thermostat. This type of thermostat has a control unit that is placed outside the kegerator, and an attached probe that is placed inside the kegerator. Typical external thermostats are inexpensive, and do not require any drilling or wiring.
- Beer enthusiasts on a budget or in a hurry may want to use a cheap plastic cobra tap instead of an external faucet. A cobra tap merely rests inside the refrigerator, and therefore no shank or drilling is required. A proper draft faucet can be added later if desired.
- Home brewers tend to use five gallon cornelius soda kegs. Kegs that are purchased from a liquor store or a brewery will be different, and will use a different type of connector or coupler for the gas and beverage lines. A kegerator must be built according to the type of keg that is going to be used.
Warnings
- This guide is not a substitute for the product instructions and warnings.
- Always wear safety glasses.
- Always read and follow all product instructions and warnings.
- Kegerators utilize gas systems that are under very high pressure. Gas under high pressure can be extremely dangerous and cause injury and death.
- Carbon dioxide can cause suffocation, injury, and death.
Things You'll Need
- Refrigerator large enough for the beer keg(s) that will be used
- Beer faucet (tap)
- Faucet handle
- Faucet shank
- Wing nut with corresponding washer and tailpiece to attach beverage tubing to the faucet shank (if needed for type of shank used)
- Beverage and gas line connectors or coupler for keg, such as soda keg barbed disconnects (this will vary depending on the type of keg used)
- Vinyl gas and beverage tubing (five feet or more for the beverage line, about three feet or more for the gas line)
- Worm clamps or other appropriate fastener to securely attach tubing
- CO2 cylinder (must be certified and filled)
- CO2 gas regulator
- Keg of beer
- Tools such as the appropriate hole saw (such as 1 1/8", 1", 7/8" or 3/4") and drill, wrenches, screw drivers, level, and ruler (these will vary depending on the specific components that are used)
- Safety glasses
