Change the Oil on an E36 (1992 1999) Bmw 3 Series
This post describes the full process of changing the oil and oil filter in a BMW 3-series made between 1992 and 1999. If you do a lot of traveling, this will save you money every couple of months and add convenience, as you can change the oil when you please.
Steps
- Drive your car until it reaches running temperature to assist in the flow of the oil, which is less viscous when warm.
- Park your car on a flat surface and open the hood. Put on gloves if desired.
- Find a solid place to apply the force of the jack to lift the car. Some models have a circular jack pad behind either of the front two tires attached to the chassis. Otherwise, find a solid member of the chassis to apply the jack. On an M3, there is a cross member running from left to right behind the front wheels that is a good place to apply the stand DO NOT jack up your car by applying the jack to a part of the suspension.
- Jack the car up high enough to slide the jack stands beneath. Apply the stand to a solid part of the chassis, then slowly release the jack allowing the car to rest on the stand. Repeat for the other side.
- Get under your car and locate the oil plug on the bottom side of the engine. It will most likely be a 17 mm nut (on convertibles, it will be under the center area of X style cross member, on the passenger side). Place the oil pan beneath the plug. Use a socket wrench to remove the plug and washer. It can help to apply inward pressure on the plug when removing it to avoid spilling hot oil.
- Allow around 20+ minutes for the oil to drain completely. Some people remove the jack stands and lower the car to ensure all of the oil drains as the car is leveled.
- Open the new oil filter. Clean the oil plug and place the new washer that came with the filter on it. Getting back under the car, replace the plug. Do not over tighten. It should be torqued to about {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}}-lb. Remove the oil pan and lower the car, removing the jack stands.
- Remove the cover of the oil filter housing. On these cars the filter is under the hood, making it easy to change. Usually it requires a 13-mm socket wrench, but double check to make sure this is the right size (some may require a size up to 36-mm). As with any nut, you want to avoid stripping it.
- Using gloves and a towel, remove the filter from the canister. Replace with your new filter. Apply new, clean oil to the new o-ring before replacing that as well. Torque to around {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}}-lb.
- Using the funnel, fill the engine with new oil through the filler cap on top of the engine. Check with your dealer to see how much oil your car requires depending on the size of the engine. Replace the cap, remove any tools, and start the car. After a few minutes check underneath to ensure that there are no leaks and turn the car off. Check the oil level on the dipstick. It should be between the two notches. If it is too low, add a small amount, run the car again, and shut it off to check the oil level until it is right.
- Clean up and dispose of oil at an oil depository, such as an auto parts store, a garage, or a public depository. Do not dump the oil.
Tips
- You should get the stock oil filter from the dealership, avoid cheap filters.
- Take your time. This should be a Sunday afternoon type chore with no rush. Although a somewhat simple procedure, it is also very important to do it right.
- Ask your dealer what oil should be used. Depending on the weather it is usually 5W-30.
Warnings
- Be cautious when jacking up the car. Make sure to ALWAYS use jack stands when getting under your car. A car resting on the jack itself presents a dangerous scenario.
- The oil may be hot and it is possible to get burned. Be very cautious when removing the oil.
Things You'll Need
- Jack (may need low profile for lower models)
- Jack stands
- 17 mm socket wrench
- 13 mm socket wrench
- Oil (6-8 quarts, check with your dealer for amount and type.)
- Oil filter
- Oil pan
- Funnel
- Gloves (latex etc.)
- Towel
